“Every dreamer knows that it is entirely possible to be homesick for a place you've never been to, perhaps more homesick than for familiar ground.” ― Judith Thurman
torsdag 1. april 2010
Namibia - det røde ørkenlandet
I min reise rundt i Afrika besøkte jeg Namibia. Her er det lange avstander, mye ørken og få innbyggere. Det er derfor ikke mye offentlig transport å oppdrive.
Namibia har 1.7 millioner innbyggere og 11 forskjellige stammer. Den klart største gruppen er Owambo som utgjør over en tredjedel av befolkningen. Andre større grupper er Kavango med 120000 og Himba og Damara med 100000 hver. Det offisielle språket er engelsk, men de fleste har et Bantuspråk eller Khoisan språk som sitt første språk. Det mest brukte språket av europeisk opprinnelse er afrikaans.
Vi var seks backpakkere som var så heldige å treffe på to sør-afrikanere som ville ta oss med på en 10dagers kjøretur fra Victoriafallene i Zimbabwe, gjennom Botzwana og så videre gjennom Namibia. Dette betalte vi 120 dollar hver for. Det var to søstre fra New Zealand, en gutt og en jente fra Australia og tyske Andrea som var min reisevenn i seks uker.
Vårt første mål på turen var Etosha Nasjonalpark, et av verdens største viltreservat. Parken er på 20000 kvadratkilometer og det er over 100 forskjellige dyrearter der. Etosha betyr ”great white place of dry water”. Vi var der utenfor turistsesongen. I denne sammenhengen vil det si at vi besøkte reservatet i en periode hvor det var lite dyr å se. Jeg var den eneste i bilen om heller ville besøke Okavangodeltaet i Botzwana enn Etosha, og jeg måtte derfor forholde meg til flertallet.
I løpet av oppholdet så vi et par løver og noen sjakaler. Men svømmebassenget på campen var bra og stedets restaurant like så. Jeg hadde sett The Big Five i Øst Afrika tidligere på turen, så for meg var det heller ikke så farlig å gå glipp av alle dyrene og jeg koste meg med lånte bøker ved svømmebassenget i stedet.
Fra Etosha gikk turen videre mot Atlanterhavskysten. Vi reiste gjennom Damarland som har tatt navnet sitt fra Damara-folket som bor i dette området. Det var ørken, fjell og et gulgrønnt gress. Annerledes, men vakkert på sin måte. Vi stoppet for å se på Petrified Forest. De forsteina trærne, eller fossilene, er estimert til å være 260 millioner år gamle. Man tror at trærne opprinnelig ikke hørte til i området, men at de kom drivende med en flom. Det er omtrent som å ta på stein, men man kan tydelig se skillet mellom treet og barken. De ligger på bakken og det er bare å gå rundt i området og se.
Neste stopp var Twyelfontein. Her så vi på helleristninger. De fleste av dem er 6000 år gamle, mens andre er fra det nittende århundre og antakeligvis laget av buskmenn. Mange av helleristningene er bilder av dyr som giraffer, løver og elefanter. Disse dyrene finnes ikke lenger i området. Det var også noen bilder av folk. En del av dem var veldig tydelige. Fjellene var røde og det var flotte steinformasjoner i hele området. Det var brennende varmt og dårlig med vann og de få innbyggerene som vi møtte satt forstålig nok i skyggen det meste av tiden.
Når vi reiste videre så fjellene nesten ut som de brant, det lyste rødt i horisonten så langt øyet kunne se. Etter hvert kom vi over i et ørkenlignende landskap med fjell i bakgrunnen, og snart overtok ørkenen helt. Langt der fremme i horisonten så det ut som det var vann, men det var bare et fata morgana.
Vi overnattet i Henties Bay, en ørkenby ved havet. Etter å ha sittet baki pickupen i flere dager var det deilig å kunne løpe ut i det kalde Atlanterhavet og bli ført inn mot land igjen av de kraftige bølgene.
Neste stopp var Cape Cross Seal Reserve. Det er en selekoloni med 80000 til 100000 seler. Det var morsomt å se på dem, men en fryktelig lukt. Da vi kom inn i bilen igjen, begynner lukten å spre seg ganske fort.
Etterpå reiste vi gjennom ørken igjen til Swakopmund. Vi overnattet på en campingplass ved havet, en del kilometer fra Swakopmund. Swakopmund er en gammel tysk koloniby. Hvis det ikke hadde vært for palmene, hadde byen sett tysk ut. Namibia var tysk koloni fra 1878. Etter den første verdenskrig tok Sør Afrika over. De gjennomførte den samme apartheidpolitikken i Namibia som i Sør Afrika og først i 1980 ga de slipp på landet. Sam Nujoma ble valgt til president, han var leder av SWAPO som hadde kjempet for frigjøring av Namibia siden midten av sekstitallet.
Neste dag reiste vi gjennom ørkenen i flere timer. Det var veldig fascinerende med fjell i bakgrunnen, fata morgana og røde sanddyner. I dette området finner man de høyeste sanddynene i verden, og det er mange sanddyner som er opp til 200 meter høye. For meg var dette høydepunktet på Namibiaturen og grunnen til at jeg besøkte landet.
Den natten vi bodde ute i ørkenen sto vi opp klokka halv fem for å reise inn til Sossusvlei. Vi måtte være der før solen blir for ubarmhjertig. Den høyeste sanddynen er 300 meter høy. Her er det sanddyner så langt øyet kunne se. Det er i Sossusvlei man finner de høyeste sanddynene, men 32000 kvadratkilometer av det vestlige Namibia består av rød sand og sanddyner. I tillegg til alle sanddynene besøkte vi Sesriem Canyon. Det var vakkert med rød sand og knallblått vann.
Etter Sossusvlei gikk turen videre til Windhoek og så var 10-dagers turen over. Utrolig nok var det åtte nordmenn på lodjen vi bodde. Den ene av guttene var litt lubben og gikk rundt i en gul shorts og t-skjorte og en svart hatt. Jeg sa til Andrea at han var prototypen på en tysker. Vi holdt på å le oss i hjel begge to da jeg fant ut at han var norsk. Han viste seg å være en artig fyr.
Windhoek er en forholdsvis ny og moderne by. Sentrum er en blanding av pastellfargede moderne bygninger og tysk kolonistil. Det er cirka 160000 innbyggere i Windhoek. Med tanke på at det er i underkant av sju prosent hvite i Namibia, tror jeg mange av dem må bo i Windhoek, for det var mange hvite folk i gatene, men de andre gruppene var også godt representert. Det finnes et ”township” i utkanten av byen som heter Katutura, her er nok de sorte overrepresentert. Frankie Frederics, en av verdens raskeste sprintere, kommer fra Katutura.
Vi ble en del dager i Windhoek på grunn av at vi møtte tyskeren Rene der som hadde leid seg bil i Capetown og kjørt helt opp til Windhoek. Vi kunne få sitte på med han tilbake til Capetown.
Det var en flott biltur med "Riders on the storm" på full guffe. På veien var vi blant annet på en lokal disco og vi tok en avsikker for å se Fishriver Canyon. Det er 160 kilometer langt og 27 kilometer bredt, og er verdens nest største canyon. Det dypeste punktet er 550 meter. Det var litt av et syn som møtte oss, men det var fryktelig varmt. En firedagers trekkingstur fristet ikke. Da var det bedre med en bil med aircondtion og Jim Morrison.
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