lørdag 27. mars 2010

Lamu – Øya hvor tiden har stått stille




























Dhowen glir sakte inn mot land. Jeg kjøper en mango og papayajuice før jeg følger folkestrømmen langs de smale gatene. Her går fullastede esler, sortkledde kvinner på vei hjem fra markedet og gamle menn i hvite kapper side om side.

























Lamu er en liten øy på nordøstkysten av Kenya. Å besøke Lamu er som å besøke en annen verden. Gjestfriheten blant øyas innbyggere fører til at du ganske fort føler deg som en del av denne verden. Her er ingen biler, hvis du ikke vil spassere må du bruke esel eller dhow.



















Her finnes uendelige hvite strender, kokosnøtt- og mangoplantasjer. Men øyas største severdighet er Lamu by, også kalt stone town. Du finner ingen plass hvor swahilikulturen er så godt bevart som i denne lille byen. Øya har hatt mange besøkende gjennom årene. Portugisiske oppdagelsesreisende, tyrkiske handelsmenn og sultanen av Oman. Men Lamus trange og svingete gater er fortsatt uendret og øya har utviklet sin egen unike kultur som er en miks av Øst-Afrika og Orienten. Lamu by står på Unescos Verdensarvliste.

























I Lamu by er det ingen strand. Ta en dhow til Shela Beach. Et uendelig paradis med hvite, bølgende sanddyner og en tolv kilometer lang strand. I begynnelsen av stranden når man kommer fra Lamu by ligger Peponi Hotell. Et av de eldste og mest kjente hotellene på øya.

En seiltur til en av naboøyene anbefales på det varmeste. Jeg dro på dhowen til Kaptein Josef sammen med mange andre backpackere til Kiwayu. Et snorkleparadis ikke så langt fra grensen til Somalia.

























Manda Island er bare en kjapp seiltur fra Lamu, her er det nesten ingen innbyggere i det hele tatt. Jeg var her et par ganger. Den ene gangen gikk jeg og fisket blant korallene. Det var bare å slenge uti en line med fiskekrok på og så fikk jeg napp med en gang.

Jeg var også så heldig å bli kjent med en av de lokale som tok meg med til sin familie på Pate Island. Der bodde jeg i to netter og ble kjent med alle jenter på øya fra 5-20 år. En mezungo var sjeldent besøk og jeg ble tatt godt vare på både av barn og voksne.

En dag gikk vi over øya til en annen landsby, da stilte halve landsbyen opp i penklær for å bli tatt bilde av.

Siste natten delte jeg seng med to tenåringsjenter. Vinduene var lukket for de var redd for onde ånder, og hendene og føttene mine var fulle av gjørme fra henna som av en eller annen grunn ikke kunne fjernes før neste morgen. En meget varm natt, men en opplevelse jeg ikke vil være foruten.

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