onsdag 7. april 2010

Kongenes dal - faraoenes gravkammer




















Ahmed leder oss sikkert ned den bratte skråningen til Kongenes Dal. Her oppe fra ser ikke gravkamrene så imponerende ut, men det var i disse gravene faraoene ble balsamert og stedt til hvile sammen med alle sine skatter. Når vi stiger ned i graven til Ramses den tredje blir vi slått av hvor vakre de 3000 år gamle hieroglyfene fortsatt er.












Byen Luxor ligger ved Nilens bredder ganske langt sør i Egypt. På den andre siden av Nilen ligger det som en gang var antikkens Thebes, og det er der Kongenes Dal ligger. Fra 1570 til 1090 før Kristus bodde det nærmere en million mennesker i Thebes. Hele området er fullt av gravkammer, men det er i Kongenes Dal vi finner de mest kjente. I Kongenes Dal er det funnet 60 gravkammer, men lang fra alle har tilhørt faraoer. De fleste gravkamrene var tømt av gravrøvere når arkeologene åpnet dem, med unntak av gravkammeret til Tut-Ankh-Amon. Da døren ble åpnet i 1922 ble lyset reflektert av skinnende gull og foran dem åpenbarte det seg skatter de aldri hadde drømt om. Alt dette er nå utstillt i Egyptisk Museum i Kairo

Det er selvsagt ingen skatter å se i gravkamrene, men fargene på hieroglyfene har holdt seg utrolig godt.

I Dronningenes Dal noen få kilometer unna ligger Nefertaris gravkammer. Veggmaleriene her går for å være de vakreste i hele Egypt. Nefertari var Ramses den andre sin favoritthustru og gravkammeret ble bygget for å hylle hennes skjønnhet. Veggene er fulle av fargerike malerier av dronningen sammen med gudene og i taket er det gullstjerner.

Vi ble med på en organisert tur til Kongenes Dal på esel. Vi ble fraktet over Nilen grytidlig på morgenen og på den andre siden stod Ahmed og eslene og ventet på oss. Det var en flott ridetur i det karrige ørkenlandskapet. Det var utgravinger flere plasser som vi rei forbi og vi fikk høre at innbyggerne i en liten landsby vi rei i gjennom måtte flytte fordi de skulle starte utgravinger der. Det finnes så mye rikdom under jorden i Egypt, men det kommer ikke den fattige befolkningen til gode. Sjelden har jeg sett et land med så store kontraster.

Luxor blir ofte kalt verdens største friluftsmuseum. I tillegg til Kongenes Dal og Dronningenes dal ligger templene i Karnak og Luxor-tempelet på samme side av Nilen som Luxor by.

Templene i Karnak har blitt udødeliggjort av Agatha Christies " Døden på Nilen". Karnak er verdens største tempel, med 134 monumentale søyler og dronning Hatsheputs 30 meter høye obelisk.

Kjæresten min og jeg reiste fire uker i Midtøsten da vi var på denne turen. Les også mine blogger fra Kairo Pyramidene i Giza, Jerusalem og Petra.


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