søndag 28. mars 2010

Zanzibar - krydderøya





Zanzibar ligger på Afrikas østkyst og er en del av Tanzania. Den vakre øya er kjent for sin swahili-kultur, en blanding av Afrika, Arabia og Asia.

Mange drar til Zanzibar for å nyte de vakre, hvite strendene som ligger nord og øst på øya. Men en vandring gjennom Stone Town som ligger i byen Zanzibar er en opplevelse jeg sent vil glemme og jeg ble i Stone Town flere dager før enn jeg dro videre til nordkysten av øya.

I Stone Town er det smale, svingete gater, indiske butikker og arabiske hus med utskårne dører. Balkongene henger over gatene og får dem til å virke enda smalere, og på de små kafeene sitter mennene i sine hvite drakter. Her finnes moskeer, templer og katedraler. De fleste av innbyggerne er afrikanere, men her er også mange av arabisk avstamming og en del indere.

På ettermiddagen møtes mange av de reisende på Africa House Hotel. Her er det en flott takterrase hvor man kan nyte solnedgangen, spennende selskap og noe godt og drikke.



Etter Africa House Hotel fortsatte jeg til Forodhani gardens. Dette er et stort uteområde nede ved havnen hvor man kan få kjøpt masse forskjellig mat fra bodene som blir satt opp om kvelden. Her kan man velge mellom sjømat, kylling, biff og grønsaker på grillspyd. Dette kan skylles ned med cola, annanasjuice eller hvorfor ikke sukkerrørjuice tilsatt lime. Jeg var her flere kvelder på rad og hadde forskjellige måltider hver gang. Her treffer man både turister og lokalbefolkningen og det er de samme menneskene som jobber i bodene hver dag, så det blir mange kjentfolk etter hvert.



Prison Island ligger fem kilometer utenfor Stonetown. Øya ble eid av en rik araber og i 1893 bygde han et fengsel der ute. Derav navnet Prison Island. Det er kjempefint å snorkle der, men litt vondt å komme seg ut. Det er langgrunt og koraller skal man jo ikke tråkke på. Først og fremst fordi man ødelegger dem, men hvis man er uheldig kan det også gjøre skikkelig vondt. Det er noen kjempesvære landskilpadder på øya, de er ganske sjeldne og kan bli 250 år gamle.

Zanzibar kalles ikke for krydderøya uten grunn. Her dyrkes det kanel, muskat, kardemomme og pepper. Og de fleste besøkende på øya drar på en organisert kryddertur. Mitu er kjent for sine turer og jeg bestilte tur hos han, men endte opp med nevøen som guide. I tillegg til alle krydrene fikk vi også se forskjellige urter som henna og sitronblad. Vi fikk lukte på en plante som satte i gang et skikkelig nysekor og det ga seg ikke før enn vi fikk en annen plante å lukte på. Lunsjen vi fikk servert på turen var nydelig og på tilbakeveien var vi innom de persiske badene.



En dag besøkte jeg Palace Museum først og fortsatte videre til Old Slave Market. Kontrastene var store for sultanen og slavene.

I 1830-årene flyttet sultan Seyyid Said sitt hoff fra Oman til Zanzibar, og i løpet av noen få år var Zanzibar et sentrum for slavehandelen i Østafrika. Da David Livingstone kom til øya, omdøpte han den til ”Stinkibar” på grunn av de dårlige, hygieniske forholdene. Han var sjokkert over den behandlingen slavene fikk. Etter press fra England gikk sultanen med på å stenge slavemarkedet i 1873. Illegal slavehandel fortsatte imidlertid rundt omkring i byen til et stykke inn på 1900-tallet. I perioden 1890 til 1963 var Zanzibar et britisk protektorat, men forskjellige sultaner fortsatte å styre under protektoratet, helt til Zanzibar ble selvstendig i 1963. I 1964 var det en blodig revolusjon på øya. Sultanen ble styrtet og Zanzibar og Tanganyika gikk sammen til den nye republikken Tanzania. Zanzibar har fortsatt utstrakt selvstyre og eget parlament. Det finnes i dag et frihetsparti på øya. Zanzibar er mye rikere på naturressurser enn resten av Tanzania, og jeg kan godt forstå de som ønsker at Zanzibar skal danne sin egen uavhengige stat. Jeg forsto ikke språket, men ”taggingen” på veggene dreide seg om dette. Det sto malt ”CUF” på mange bygninger i Stone Town.


Siden Zanzibar er rikere enn resten av Tanzania er det mange som kommer fra fastlandet for å jobbe på en av de mange restaurantene eller hotellene. Jeg ble kjent med David fra den sørlige delen av Tanzania. Han tilbød meg et privat kokkekurs og det kunne jeg selvsagt ikke takke nei til. Han bodde et stykke utenfor sentrum i Mwenakuwelekwe. Ikke spør meg hvordan dette uttales, jeg måtte få han til å vise meg stedet på kartet. Vi handlet på markedet ved Old Slave Market og syklet hjem til han etterpå.

Menyen var fisk i kokossaus og chapati. Det vanskeligste var å få kokosen ut av kokosnøtten, for her ble alt laget fra bunnen av. Jeg satt på en lav krakk med et redskap som så ut som et slags spyd stikkende ut fra krakken. Hemmeligheten var å raspe kokosen ut av den halve kokosnøtten. Etterpå tok vi kokosen i en slags ”sokk” sammen med vann for å lage kokosmelk. Fiskebitene rullet vi i hakket ingefær og hvitløk, før vi stekte den lett og hadde den i kokosmelken. Jeg satt på golvet og kjevlet ut chapati på et lite rundt bord. Etterpå stekte vi dem på en liten takke. Det smakte kjempegodt.

Etter noen innholdsrike dager i Stone Town dro jeg videre til nordkysten. Vi var flest turister som tok dala-dala, men en høyreist rastafari var også med. Plutselig sa han at alle måtte gå ut fordi de skulle telle oss. Grunnen til at vi måtte ut var at bilen hadde et flatt dekk. Da vi omsider kom oss inn i bilen igjen sa han at vi skulle bare innom stasjonen og hente noen høner og geitekillinger før enn vi skulle dra videre til nordkysten. Dette var bare en spøk, men det virket som jeg var den eneste som synes det var morsomt.



Nordkysten er nydelig. Vannet er krystallklart og har mange forskjellige blåfarger med skjæring til grønt og turkis. Stranden er hvit og uendelig, og vi bodde på stranden. Det var bare noen få bungalower på stedet vi bodde.
Ikke langt fra resorten vår var det en liten fiskelandsby. Bønnesuppen der kostet 75 øre og smaken var deretter, men de hadde god te og mandazi. Chris, en av gjestene på resorten kjøpte en geit i landsbyen som vi skulle ha til middag senere i uken. Den sto like ved teltet vårt, og det er vel første gang jeg har vært nærmeste nabo med det som skal bli middagen min.

Heldigvis var det ikke Chris, men kokken på resorten som tilberedte middagen, og den ble bra den. Grillspyd med geitekjøtt, masse grønsaker og ris og søtpoteter til.

Dagene på Nungwi var fantastiske. Når jeg våknet om morgenen så jeg utover havet, og ti meter borte var restauranten med deilig frokost. Jeg solte meg fram til lunsj og etter lunsj svømte jeg, lånte surfbrettet til rastafarien som skulle telle oss eller gikk turer på stranda sammen med de andre som bodde på resorten. Middagen var alltid en suksess og så satt vi rundt bålet på stranda på kvelden og fortalte om alle stedene vi hadde reist til. Been there, done that;)

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