onsdag 17. mars 2010

Indonesia - Rundresie på Java

































Ute på Javas rismarker i forgrunnen av en vulkan ligger verdens største buddhistiske monument. De 1460 relieffene er en reise i Buddhas liv. Det vakre monumentet lå skjult under aske i 1000 år, men i dag er det restaurert og kan glede sine mange besøkende med sin storslagenhet.

Borobudur ligger 42 kilometer nordvest for Yogakarta på øya Java i Indonesia. Dette enorme buddhistmonumentet ble bygget en gang under Sailendra-dynastiets regjeringstid mellom 778 og 856. Like etter at Borobudur ble bygget ble hele Sentral-Java forlatt og samtidig fikk Mont Merapi et voldsomt vulkanutbrudd som førte til at Borobudur lå skjult under aske i nærmere 1000 år.

I 1814 fikk den britiske viseguvernøren på Java høre rykter om et fjell av buddhistiske skulpturer i stein. Han sendte militæringeniøren Cornelius for å undersøke om dette kunne være tilfelle. Cornelius fant Borobudur og satte i gang et omfattende utgravingsarbeid. Han stoppet utgravingen før de var ferdige fordi han var redd for å skade det gamle monumentet. I løpet av årene som gikk ble Borobudur gravd helt frem og mange skulpturer endte opp som havedekorasjoner hos de rike, i private kunstsamlinger og på museum rundt omkring i verden.






































Først i 1900 startet den hollandske kolonimakten et svært restaureringsprosjekt. Prosjektet ble imidlertid aldri fullført på grunn av de to verdenskrigene. I 1973 ble det omsider iverksatt et prosjekt finansiert av UNESCO. 1.3 millioner steinblokker ble demontert, fotografert, renset og gjenoppsatt.

Borobudur var opprinnelig bygget i 10 nivåer. Fra femte til niende nivå følger vi relieffer om prins Siddhartas liv på hans vei til å bli Buddha samt scener fra Jakarta-folkeeventyrene om hans tidligere inkarnasjoner. På toppen av monumentet er det 72 bjelleformede stupaer. Inne i nesten alle av dem er det en Buddha-figur. To av Buddhaene ble ikke tildekket av stupaer. De ser over på Menorehfjellene som representerer Gunadharma, Borobudurs guddommelige arkitekt.


En topptur til Mount Merapi kan anbefales. Vulkanen ligger i et grønt og frodig område i nærheten avYogakarta. Det er landsbyer opp til 1100 meter rundt vulkanen. Selve vulkanen er 2968 meter. MountMerapi er en av verdens mest aktive vulkaner, så det er ikke sikkert du er så heldig å få besøkt den. Vi måtte snu et stykke før toppen. Jeg forsto aldri hvorfor, men en flott tur var det uansett.

Yoga er den mest populære byen i Indonesia. Byen er et sentrum for javanesisk kultur og har også mange palasser og templer. I tillegg er byen lett å orientere seg i, befolkningen er vennlig og Yoga mangler forurensningen og trafikkaoset som man finner i mange byer av tilsvarende størrelse. Byen er helt flat og det er vanlig å bli transportert i sykkeltaxier rundt omkring i den koselige byen.

Yoga er kjent for sin vakre batikk. Her finner man fabrikkutsalg og butikker over hele byen. Klassisk javanesisk dans er en vakker forestilling man ikke bør gå glipp av når man først er i Yogakarta.




























Byggingen av Kraton startet i 1775 og varte i nesten 40 år. Det var palasskomplekset til sultanene av Java og er meget vakkert og luksuriøst.

Hver dag fra klokka ti til tolv er det underholdning i den indre paviljongen. Da vi var der var det wayang-kulit. Dette er et dukkeskyggespill der dukkeføreren styrer hele forestillingen, og javaneserne er veldig glad i denne kunstformen. Bakgrunnsmusikken var gamelan, en meget spesiell musikkform, der de bruker bronseinstrumenter som blir laget på egne gamelanstøperier.

Vannpalasset Taman Sari ble bygd mellom 1758 og 1765. Her var et kompleks av kanaler, palasser og bassenger, men i dag er det mest ruiner. Det er flere batikkutsalg her og like ved ligger det fargerike fuglemarkedet med kakaduer, papegøyer og undulater.

Prambanan som er det største hinduistiske tempelkomplekset på Java ligger 17 kilometer øst for byen. Det ble bygd rundt 50 år etter Borobudur og ble på samme måte ”glemt” i over 1000 år. Nå er det restaurert og et besøk dit kan virkelig anbefales. Komplekset består av åtte templer. Det største av dem er det 47 meter høye Shiva-tempelet. To av de andre templene er innviet til gudene Vishnu og Brahma. Templene har flotte statuer og utskjæringer som er fulle av fascinerende detaljer.

I likhet med Borobudor er Prambanan på Unescos Verdensarvliste.





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