torsdag 8. april 2010

Petra - den rosa ørkenbyen























































Etter å ha gått nærmere to kilometer i en smal og dyp kløft møter jeg et spektakulært syn. En rosa bygning, hogd ut av selveste fjellet, dekker hele mitt synsfelt. Dette er mitt første møte med Petra, et av verdens største underverker.

Petra ligger sør i Jordan omtrent 100 kilometer nord for Rødehavet. Petra ble bygd av nabateerne fra 300 før Kristus. Nabateerne hogde ut flotte templer, palasser, boliger og gravkammer i fjellet og på det meste var det 30000 innbyggere i Petra.

Petra lå strategisk til langs handelsruten fra Saudi Arabia til Damaskus i Syria. Alle de store karavanene med silke, krydder og slaver passerte byen og Petra ble en av Midtøstens viktigste handelsimperium.

Etter hvert ble Petra erobret av romerne og siden ble byen glemt av omverdenen i 1000 år. I 1812 fikk en ung eventyrer og vitenskapsmann fra Sveits et glimt av den forlatte byen, men utgravinger og restaurering av byen startet først i 1929.

I dag er Petra en av de størst turistattraksjonene i Midtøsten og har vært på Unescos Verdensarvliste siden 1985. I en global avstemning som ble kunngjort 07.07.2007 ble stedet valgt som ett av de moderne åtte underverkene.

For å komme inn til den uthogde klippebyen må man gå gjennom en to kilometer lang kløft, som blir kalt for siq`en. Det første synet som møter en etter å ha gått de to kilometerne er Khazneh, eller Faraos skattkammer. Dette vakre templet, uthogd i fjellet, skinner rosa i sollyset. Fasaden er 40 meter høy, og de som har sett ”Indiana Jones og den siste korsfarer” vil nikke gjenkjennende.

































Hvis du vil se hele Petra trenger du to dager. Men du kan få sett mange av høydepunktene i løpet av en dag. Fjellet her er veldig porøst og har mange forskjellige farger. Det er forskjellige rødfarger med nyanser fra vinrød til rosa. I tillegg er det forskjellige gråfarger som går over i gult og sort.

De kongelige gravkamrene ligger og skuer ut over hovedveien gjennom Petra. Flere av disse er godt bevart og har flotte fasader. I tillegg er det utrolig flotte fargenyanser i taket på et av gravkamrene.

Like ved gravkamrene ligger amfiteateret med 8000 sitteplasser. Dette er en av de få frittstående bygningene i området som ble bygget av romerne når de tok over makten.

Den største bygningen i Petra er klosteret. For å komme dit må man gå langs en del stier og trapper, så det er en fordel å ha på seg fjellsko eller joggesko. Klosteret har den samme fasaden som Khazneh, men mangler de flotte fargene.

Uten stopp underveis er det en times gange fra Faraos skattkammer til klosteret, men med de mange flotte bygningene underveis, er det vanskelig å rekke over noe mer på en dag. Hvis du har en dag ekstra, kan du gå opp til Umm al-Biyra, dette er en slitsom tur som tar 2-3 timer, men utsikten utover Petra og de ville Edom-fjellene er fantastisk.


Andre severdigheter i området

WADI RUM














Wadi Rum ligger helt sør i Jordan, en kort kjøretur fra Aqaba som ligger ved Rødehavet. Wadi Rum har et av de vakreste ørkenlandskapene i verden. Lawrence av Arabia tilbrakte mye tid her, og mange av scenene fra filmen om han er tatt opp her.

I likhet med Petra har sanden og fjellformasjonene her et rødlig skjær, og det er mange fargenyanser i fjellet. Det er flere canyon i området, og de mange fjellformasjonene er ypperlige for fjellklatrere.

Det er mulig å leie både kamel og firehjulstrekk her. I hele området er det rundt 4000 innbyggere. Disse består av landsbyboere i Rum og ørkennomader som er spredd utover hele området. Beduinene i området kjenner hver minste lille del av området fra gjeting og jakt. De senere årene har det blitt utviklet et organisert turisttilbud med guidede turer og overnatting ute i ørkenen.

Vi leide en jeep med sjåfør og guide og hadde en flott dag i ørkenen. Vi stoppet ved flere canyon og gikk en flott tur i et av dem. På vei tilbake punkterte vi, men guiden vår blinket bare med lysene mot landsbyen, og etter tre kvarters tid kom noen slektninger med reservehjul. Mens vi ventet fikk vi anledning til å se på det mektige ørkenlandskapet. Før det ble helt mørkt hadde himmelen et vell av farger og fjellformasjonene i det fjerne lyste først rødt og så svart før de forsvant helt i natten.

Kjæresten min og jeg reiste fire uker i Midtøsten da vi var på denne turen. Les også mine blogger fra Kairo (Pyramidene i Giza), Kongenes Dal, Dahab og Jerusalem
.

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