tirsdag 13. april 2010

Kypros - en blanding av Hellas og Tyrkia


Kypros er den tredje største øya i Middelhavet. Det er bare de italienske øyene Sicilia og Sardinia som er større. Beliggende sør for det tyrkiske fastland er øya et sikkert valg hvis man vil ha litt sommer tidllig på våren. Vi dro til Ayia Napa tidlig i mai før alle de fulle ungdommene fra Nord Europa var kommet til byen. Etter å ha lest norske tabloidaviser er vel dette ikke plassen man har lyst til å sende norsk ungdom på sydenferie, men det går faktisk an å tenke litt selv. Du må ikke drikke deg dritings og dele ut bodyshots i baren selv om du er alene i syden for første gang.

Jeg har aldri forstått at vikingrestauaranter i syden kan være så populære. Hvorfor spise potatismos og svenske kjøttboller når det er så mye annet spennende å velge i.  Noe av sjarmen ved å reise er å smake på den lokale maten og på Kypris er meze et høydepunkt.


Ayia Napa har mange vakre strender og vannet er blågrønt og krystallklart. Vi badet ikke så mye, for vi er glad i å reise rundt og se litt av landet vi besøker. Vi tok sjansen på å leie bil til tross for at det er venstrekjøring på øya. Det ble mye vinduspussing i rundkjøringene ellers gikk det greit. Jeg trodde at det kun dreide seg om kjøre på feil side av veien, men nei da her er alt i bilen plassert motsatt av det man er vant med i et land med høyrekjøring.



Kypros har flere vakre kloster, men det flotteste av dem alle er Kykkos som ligger høyt oppe i Troodosfjellene. Vi kjørte gjennom Cedar Valley på vei til  klosteret. Den smale veien tok oss gjennom en utrolig vakker skog med grønne sedertrær. Oppe i fjellene ville vi utforske Kypros og dra vekk fra hovedveien. Vi valgte en smal grusvei som bare ble smalere og smalere og en stund lurte vi faktisk på om vi måtte snu. Det var ikke så fristende og heldigvis endte  vi opp i en liten landsby hvor vi spiste middag på en liten lokal kneipe. Herifra kom vi ned igjen på hovedveien mellom Nicosia og Larnaca og kunne dra tilbake til Ayia Napa.



I 1974 skjedde et forsøk på statskupp av greskkypriotiske nasjonalister[og den den greske militærjuntaen. Målet var  å oppnå enosis (forening av Kypros med Hellas). Dette førte til at det tyrkiske militæret gikk i land på nordlige delen av øya 20. juli 1974, også kjent som Operasjon Fred i Kypros, for å beskytte de tyrkiske kypriotene. Tyrkisk militære ble igjen på øya etter våpenstillstanden, noe som praktisk førte til en deling av øya og som har vært et mål for Tyrkia siden 1955. Volden mellom de etniske samfunnene og den påfølgende tyrkiske invasjonen førte til at 200000 greskkyprioter måtte flytte fra nord til sør, mens tyrkisk kypriotene måtte flytte fra sør til nord. En adskilt tyrkisk kypriotisk politisk enhet i den nordlige delen av Kypros ble etablert. Disse hendelsene og den påfølgende politiske situasjonen er fortsatt en vedvarende tvist. Nord-Kypros er i dag et okkupert område og det er bare Tyrkia som har godkjent Nord-Kypros som en egen stat.



Spøkelsebyen Varosha i Famagusta er et tydelig minne om okkupasjonen. Her har ingen bodd siden den 1974 og når vi besøkte Kypros var det ikke mulig å besøke byen. Vi kunne bare ta bilder fra en strategisk plassert kafe på den greske siden. Her var nok utsikten viktigere enn menyen og det var inngangspenger.

Hovedstaen er delt i to siden den er hovedstad både for syd og nord. Vi dro kun til den greske delen. Grensen mellom nord og sør kalles den grønne linjen. Navnet kommer av at her får nauren være i fred siden det ikke er noen bebyggelse eller infrastruktur her utenom veiene som går mellom de to områdene.

Etter å ha vært på Kypros slo det meg at landet har en veldig interessant historie som jeg vil lære mer om. Neste gang vil jeg dra til den okkuperte delen av øya og se hva Nord Kypros har å by på.

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