tirsdag 20. april 2010

Mauritius - et multietnisk paradis


"You gather the idea that Mauritius was made first and then heaven, and that heaven was copied after Mauritius"
Mark Twain

Mauritius ligger i Indiahavet, omkring 800 km øst for Madagaskar. Øya var ubebodd fram til 1638, da bosatte det seg en liten koloni med nederlendere der. I 1710 flyttet de tilbake til Nederland og øya ble igjen ubebodd fram til 1721. Da kom franskmennene og bosatte seg der.


I motsetning til mange andre stater i den tredje verden er det ingen urinnvånere som har blitt undertrykket eller utryddet av europeere på Mauritius, men nederlenderne har fått skylden for at dodoen, en stor duefugl som ikke var flyvedyktig, ble utryddet. Her i fra stammer uttrykket "dead as a dodo".

I dag utgjør indere over to tredjedeler av befolkningen. Av disse er 52 % hinduer og 17 % muslimer. Kreoler som er etterkommere av afrikanske slaver som jobbet på sukkerplantasjene utgjør 17 %. Her bor også kinesere, fransk-mauritere og 4000 ilois-er som for rundt 40 år siden ble tvangsflyttet fra Chagos-øyene for å gi plass til en av USAs viktigste marinebaser.

Engelsk og fransk er det offisielle språket, men her snakkes også kreolsk og hindu. Mange av innbyggerne er flerspråklige. Vi snakket med en liten, indisk jente på stranden og hun snakket alle de fire språkene.


Hinduene har sin egen hellige plass, Grand Bassin. Den lokale troen er at vannet i innsjøen er fra Ganges i India. Her er det en tempel dedikert til Shiva og en høy Shiva-statue.


Sega-dansen er også spesiell for Mauritius. Dette er den kreolske befolkningen sin nasjonaldans og den kom til øya med de afrikanske slavene.
 

Strandliv, snorkling og dykking er høydepunktet når man besøker Mauritius. Her er det mange steder å velge i mellom. Vi bodde på Flic en Flac og var veldig fornøyd med oppholdet der. Flic en Flac ligger på vestkysten og har perfekte snorklingmuligheter og en mange kilometer lang strand.

Hovedstaden Port Louis med mange kreolske bygninger fra kolonitiden, kinesiske pagoder, hindutempel, kirker og moskeer ligger ikke langt fra Flic en Flac. Vi var her på dagstur med vår lille sønn på 4 måneder. Det anbefales å bruke babybjørn i stedet for barnevogn.


Like utenfor Port Louis ligger Pamplemousses Botanical Garden som er den eldste botaniske hagen på den sørlige halvkule. Hagen er berømt for sin lange dam med kjempeliljer og dekker et område på cirka 37 hektar. Her er det 85 sorter palmer, flere fuglearter samt kjempeskilpaddene som bor ved den nordlige utgangen. Hagen er oppkalt etter Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam som var en av Mauritius ledende politikere på 1900-tallet.
 

Det flotteste huset fra kolonitiden er Eureka House. Med sine 109 dører føles huset deilig avkjørende også på sommeren.


I Chamarel er det store, bølgende sandklittsletter med farget jord. Den fargede jorden skifter fargenyanser fra rødt til lilla og er et naturfenomen som antageligvis har oppstått på grunn av vulkansk aktivitet.

Et annet høydepunkt på Mauritius var maten. Her er det en blanding av indisk og kreolsk kjøkken og i tillegg masse god sjømat, grønsaker og frukt. Yummi.

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