søndag 14. mars 2010

Varanasi - Den hellige byen ved Ganges floder

I over 3000 år har troende hinduer fra hele India dratt til den hellige byen Varanasi for å bade i elven Ganges og rense sin karma. Med seg tilbake frakter de det hellige vannet i krukker og flasker.

Det er rundt 70 "ghats" i Varanasi. En ghat er et avgrenset område med lange trapper ned i vannet, hvor hinduene samler seg for å bade, vaske klær, be og meditere. I noen av ghatsene er det likbrenning og asken blir strødd i vannet.

De mange tusen badende besøker ofte elven ved morgengry og turistene blir rodd i båter ut på elven Ganges og sitter med skrekkblandet fryd og bivåner det hele. Selv om Ganges er hellig er den på ingen måte ren. Her flyter kukadavre, saduer (hellige menn)og småbarnslik sammen med aske og kloakk. Dette høres makabert ut for de ikke troende, men for hinduene er det å ha muligheten til å bade i Ganges et av livets største øyeblikk. I Varanasi kan man ikke bare leve lykkelig, men også dø lykkelig og mange kommer hit for å dø. Da slipper de å bli gjenfødt og kommer til nirvana.

Likbrenning foregår 24 timer i døgnet. Det er ingen kvinner med på likbrenningen. Dette skyldes at en sørgelig atmosfære er bannlyst, det vil uroe sjelen og gjøre det vanskeligere å fri seg fra de organiske restene. I tillegg ble det bestemt å forby kvinner ved bålene for å forhindre den gamle skikken enkebrenning.

Varanasi er uvirkelig. Man føler seg hensatt til en filmkulisse i en film fra en svunnen tid, hvor de fargerikt kledde pilegrimene er statister. Både bygningene og de smale gatene får en til å tenke at dette er noe som en gang var. Det er vanskelig å finne en by som er så intens og samtidig er så uvirkelig. Det er vanskelig å finne en by som er så skitten og så forurenset, men hvor vannet likevel blir drukket og ansett som hellig og hvor de fargerike sarongene har beholdt sin fargeprakt til tross for at de er vasket i Ganges.

Til og med hotellromet vårt hadde så sur lukt at vi måtte vaske alle klærne våre når vi kom til Pokhara i Nepal for å få vekk lukten. Men likevel er besøket i Varanasi et besøk jeg ikke vil være foruten.



Her går hellige kuer sammen med mennesker, motorsykkelritchawer og motorsykler. Menneskene må vike for kjøretøyene og kjøretøyene må vike for kuene som til og med har sin egen ghat.

Byen er også kjent for sine vakre brokader med sølvtåder, så regn med at du vil få mange invitasjoner til systuene i byen.

Synes du India er et spennende land. Les bloggene min fra Kerala,  Pushkar og Taj Mahal eller fra nabolandet Nepal og hovedstaden Kathmandu.

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